I had originally clamped the new exhaust pipe by cutting a couple slits in the end of the pipe, pushing it over the outlet of the muffler and clamping it down with a Jubilee clip. This proved unsatisfactory as the Jubilee clip could not be adequately tightened without slipping. They are ultimately not designed to be done up very very tight anyway, so I decided a U-clamp would be a better option. I went to the local hardware store and had a rummage around. I discovered a 3/4″ wire rope clamp, which had a decent clamping surface.
It’s a little oversized, but it has clamped the pipe very effectively. I also polished the pipe up, which came up really nicely.
Next up was to pull the generator winding out and build up a bridge rectifier. I wanted to get the most out of the coil, so some modification was required. It was wound with one side to ground.
I de-soldered the end of the wire to ground and built a bridge rectifier so the device could use both sides of the wave output.
Tucked in a capacitor.
Fitted everything back in and connected it up in a testing fashion.
Hooked up an LED on the low beam light, as it’s more efficient and will not drain the battery so much. The color temperature is also acceptable, at a moderately warm 2700K.
Began work on building a voltage regulator. Built it up on breadboard first and tested with a 12V supply to check it regulated correctly down to the 6V required by the system.
Translated the regulator and charger circuit to Veroboard, attempting to keep it as compact as possible.
I had wanted to have a no-charge warning light, so decided the best way to do that was to have a comparator circuit. Compare the voltage coming in to that of the battery (across a voltage drop, in this case a diode) and illuminate a light when the input was less than that of the output.
The switches I had purchased were set up that the on/off rocker was green with a green LED and the on/off/on rocker was red with no illumination. The front panels were printed with I O II style lettering to show the positions. I took the on/off switch apart and fitted a red LED inside.
I reassembled the switches after having sanded the old labeling off and adding some new, more appropriate symbols.
Testing showed the lamp illuminated adequately.
Hooked the breadboard up to the bike and ran the engine to test operation. That proved successful.
Completed build of the comparator circuit on the Veroboard.
Final bench test, under full load of the regulator and warning light circuits.
Took a break from electronics at this point to clean up the handlebars, which were very rusty and flaking paint that was applied badly in the past (not by me!). Sanded the handlebars back to bare metal.
Masked up and painted the handlebars gloss black to match the fenders.
Reassembled, the finish is acceptable.
Resumed wiring up the switches to the lights (with a set of diodes for the rear light so as not to back-feed the front lights.
First test, on battery. Main beam at that point did not have a light bulb, the original was 12V.
So now, it’s a bicycle, with a wiring diagram. The colors of the wires did not match as I had bought a trailer harness with a nice detachable plug for the back and the wires coming off the switch were all different colors.
I fitted everything into the little leather satchel below the seat.
I need to finish up and cover this up with some looming tape or some other covering but for now it’s tidy.
All set up, neat and tidy.