I decided that the wobbly-screen Macintosh needed to have a bit of work done to make it a bit more trustworthy and reliable. The electrolytic capacitors had been installed in it since 1985 (8113th device produced in the 24th week of 1985 in Fremont, per the serial, so a real early 512k).
Took it to pieces after ordering a bunch of spares (total about $15, so not bad), with the replacement caps rated at least one voltage rating over what was fitted and 105C rather than 85C as fitted originally to try and keep them a little more stable.
Not many capacitors on the logic board, though it is a 4-layer PCB so extra care had to be taken. I’ll give them this, it’s a well made PCB.
Tried to keep the solder-work neat. Don’t think I did too bad a job, to be honest.
Got stuck in doing the power and sweep board, which has the majority of the capacitors.
First test, and things were promising until the brightness control decided to stop working.
Turns out the center carbon track had completely fallen apart. Checked the schematic, fairly standard 16mm 1MOhm linear pot, so went on the hunt for something similar in the electronics catalogs online.
Closest modern variant I could find. The board is the right size and the connecting pins the correct length, important in this application because of the way the computer is assembled.
Carefully undid the new piece, as the thing was essentially backwards from how it needed to be.
This side is where the old one had the handle coming out. I removed the crimped section and split it all down, had to file the ears of the board a little to make it fit but managed to put it back together again, and have it test good and smooth operation across its range of travel.
Put that back in the circuit and the brightness is now adjustable again. Checked the voltages and the 5V rail (the master) was a bit low at 4.72V so that was tweaked up to 5.00V. The 12V rail, slaved from it sat happily at 12.2V so that’s all well within limits.
The screen became a bit intermittent- traced that eventually down to a couple broken solder joints on the connector to the end cap of the tube.
Removed the old solder and re-added new.
All up and working again. Need to adjust the centering of the screen a little, I think I must have knocked the centering rings when I put the wiring back in. Overall, a lot better than it was.