Box of tapes arrived. Got set up, fed the tape through. Looping it into the spool is an art I’m not very good at! Wound the tape forward and backward to make sure it wasn’t disintegrating.. it’s been played fairly recently.
Result, it plays. Not half badly, either. It’ll improve with recapping. Enjoying Benny Goodman right now. I’m happy.
Finished up the cosmetics today, gave the front a clean up then reassembled the side panels.
Looks better, for sure.
Decided today to carry on with the Teac.
Stripped it of its’ sides. It’s a well-built machine.
Pre-work, ready to be cleaned.
Cleaned up, and dried off.
Preparation to oil the veneer.
Odd angle but, applying the Tung oil.
Letting the oil soak in.
Left until tacky then buffed down to a uniform finish. Typically this attracts lint, which will mostly come out once it’s drier later, with a second buffing. I think, looking at it, that’ll be adequate as it’s come up nicely.
Ordered some reel to reel tape off eBay. Shall see how (if) it works. That is, if the tape deck isn’t toast. I’m going to go ahead and plot through the schematic then the circuit diagram to see what, in terms of electrolytic capacitors, are in the sound path and get a list of replacements together.
Reassembled and tested the functions of the deck. Pinch roller now snaps in nicely, rest of it seems ok. Just needs a clean on the outside and the transport path is still grubby. Shopping for tapes now 🙂
Found a copy of the service manual and a copy of the user manual for the A-2300SX (similar machine in function and setup).
Continuing on with the Teac. Took a look at how it’s assembled.
Removed the flywheel and clamp plate.
Had a bit of a fight getting in at the right angle with enough torque (ended up with a small wrench on a drill-driver bit) to undo the solenoid finger-bar.
With a bit of a fight, wiggling and swearing the lever arm came free, showing the culprit. 40-year old dry grease.
With a suitable solvent on a Q-Tip, the old grease was removed. A rag on the shaft got the rest.
Choice of lubricant for this task, regular grease.
All mating surfaces given a light coat of grease before reassembly.
There are a pair of microswitches operated by a cam, attached to the tape-run lever on the front. When I undid one screw to move the switches out of the way, this piece of the lower switch fell away. Someone in the past has over-tightened the screw.
Out with the superglue. Glued the corner back on, waiting for it to set right now before continuing.
Collected a nice Teac A-2300S reel to reel deck yesterday. Cosmetically very good, needing a bit of TLC to get working again.
Started by seeing how the paint would respond to a bit of a scrub, as it was all bit dusty.
The cover over the heads came up nicely after a quick scrub with a bit of soap.
The tape path is filthy with oxide. Started cleaning it up with tape head cleaner and Q-Tips.
Popped the back off. All pretty good inside, the main capstan motor was stuck but after a quick spin by hand now rotates freely. You can see the original NEMA-1 power connector on the back that I didn’t have the cord for. It’s bit outdated now and hard to find correct cords for. Decided to change it out.
Nice new IEC connector from a dead computer PSU. Came with a nice Y1 type safety cap and an RF choke. Left that all in the circuit, connected the hot to the fuse and the N to the power board, and ran the ground to the back panel. Nice that it’s now grounded.
Brought it gently up on the Variac. Both needles gave a bit of a wobble as the circuits charged up.
Set it to fast forward.. it all spins up properly.
Gave the back panel a bit of a scrub also, it was dusty.
The capstan pinch roller had jammed solid, which also moves the tape pressure pins. In short, this machine, as it stands, would move the tape but never play.
Took the back bearing plate off and tried dripping some solvent onto the bearing arm.
Unfortunately it’s a very tight fit and I think it’ll be futile attempting that method. It needs the arm taken off the bearing, the bearing cleaning of the old grease thoroughly and some new grease applied. That’ll necessitate removal of the capstan flywheel to get at the mechanism.